{NM Daily}

After a full work day in heels, walking to the train or to your car in a remote parking lot may seem like an insurmountable task. Your feet ache, and if you had some extra space in your handbag – which already contains your makeup, computer, phone, wallet, planner, iPad and everything else that’s essential –then you would have packed a pair of flats. Alas. This is exactly why entrepreneurs Susie Levitt and Katie Shea invented CitySlips – lightweight, foldable footwear. Juggling school, internships and social lives had the two NYU students running in heels around the city. The girls’ busy schedules left them exhausted and their feet were feeling the brunt of the pain. So after some late-night research and development in the dorms, Levitt and Shea came up with a business plan. And before long they were selling CitySlips to friends, classmates and other New Yorkers whose daily trek around the city in skyscraper heels called for some emergency footwear. CitySlips are packed in an expandable dust bag, so you can carry your to not-so-comfy high heels home. Clever!

Varsity Versus via Versace! On a wood floor runway like a junior high or high school gymnasium, Donatella Versace and her design partner in crime Christopher Kane mastered the sportif motif that has been an underlying message of the season. The infatuation with the sporting life is everywhere. Lavender or white satin dresses with black satin trims inspired by sports jerseys with zip pocket details at the hip opened the show. Chiffon gym pants with a drawstring waist in black or white go with the flow. A color story throughout Milan defined the collection – black, lavender, pink, aqua, powder blue.

Fractured digital knits recall letterman sweaters in pink and black. A sleeveless pink leather hoodie was super cool. Colorful book bags as handbags trimmed in black nylon webbing completed the locker room scheme. Deep box-pleat cheerleader skirts and split-pleat car wash skirts. (They’re back!) Grecian goddess inspired bodice meets cheerleader skirts to form dresses – the perfect melding of Versace with a varsity attitude. Elongated flame stitch knits close to the body in sorbet shades. This is a super charged collection of advanced contemporary sportswear designed by one of the hottest names in the industry, Christopher Kane.

Shop Versus’ Fall collection now on NeimanMarcus.com.

Inspired by Italian street festivals decorated in brilliant colored lights, with farmers selling goods in open markets. The boys of Dolce & Gabbana continue to pull from their Sicilian heritage to create the dream of the runway. Chiffon floral dresses with bustier tops and full skirts… Printed, sheer, volume, and movement are all important trends of the season. Vegetable prints as swimsuits, matched suits, and dress jacket ensembles. Red Pepper, zucchini, onion, eggplant, and tomato. Re-embroidered lace in blush and black, and lace with vegetables. Leather with dimensional flowers on lace, jewels on damask, and floral jacquards. Orange PVC with crochet lace as ready to wear… raffia re-embroidered with crochet and pom poms… jet beads and paillettes in black on black jacquards… colorful stones on black or on a nude background. The accessories: wicker platforms, lace peep-toe booties, patent Mary Janes with PVC on a colored heel and raffia and wicker bags. Jewel encrusted pin-up girl swim suits filled the runway for the finale. Fun, frolic and much to keep the Dolce & Gabbana girl living La Dolce Vita!

Shop Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall collection now on NeimanMarcus.com. 

Margherita Missoni tells me pre-show that the Madame Gres exhibit in Paris and flamenco inspired Angela and herself for the Spring collection. La Isla Bonita. Tropicalia is everywhere in Milan.

Sexy ruffles, flounced bias cuts, draped dresses and tunics layered over pants… Fringe hems that resemble piano scarf shawls as dresses, skirts and scarves… Fringe details on bodices and hems, and off-the-shoulder and one-shoulder flamenco flounces.

Tile and geometric knits in ultra violet, turquoise, chocolate, marine blue, saffron, lime. Zebra tribal patterns, cocoa and blush exploded into traditional Missoni knit patterns. Yellow everywhere!

Ruffles were formed into Missoni bikinis in deep shades of cocoa and chocolate with copper lurex. Printed knits layered under sheer chiffons…the peek-a-boo trend we have seen throughout the season.

Colorful Missoni knits were fashioned into handbags and fans that the models clutched in hand. Colorful fun! Great new takes on traditional Missoni knit patterns. Sexy and feminine!

Shop Missoni’s Fall collection now on NeimanMarcus.com.

La Prairie Advanced Marine Biology Collection

“The Sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”  — Jacques Cousteau

Celine Cousteau, founder of CauseCentric Productions and granddaughter of the legendary Jacques Cousteau, is a born explorer who continues to create awareness for protecting the sustainability of our ocean resources.  For the past five years Cousteau has engaged in a partnership with the prestigious Swiss skincare company, La Prairie.  Their partnership has evolved to reveal the protective powers of the sea through the development of the Advanced Marine Biology Collection, an eco-conscious skincare line that is focused on protection and prevention.  The nutrients and anti-oxidants found in the marine extracts help prevent environment stresses from damaging the skin.  La Prairie says these extracts have the ability to give the skin radiance, energy and vitality.  For example, the new Advanced Marine Biology Eye Gel is formulated with a Green Microalgae Oligopeptide that targets and improves the appearance of dark under eye circles and spider veins. 

A bright white runway that ran through a rock garden. A Mondrian grid of green, red, blue and yellow. Fifties haute couture with a modern attitude. White on white – strict cut dresses with dart and princess seaming in lightweight cottons layered to be opaque to semi sheer. Shutter pleat details, short and long sleeves, all hemlines below the knee, seaming and transparency created the design interest.

Paisley prints! Neon-injected paisley on a white background. Paisley tops and bottoms paired with navy pencil skirts and navy tops. Lady Chic jacket and dress combinations, very strict dresses, bow detail at the back of the neck — very Dior and  Balenciaga from the Fifties. Paisley clip earrings and little hats with veils… Intarsia knits borrowed from Picasso were worn with gingham or white pants.

Prim with a Fifties nod and a twist that makes it today and very Raf Simons, very Jil Sander!

Shop Jil Sander’s Fall collection now on NeimanMarcus.com.

La bonita Pucci! Peter Dundas presented sexy Spanish señoritas strutting in a parade of prints. Pucci-print chiffon, full long skirts topped with lace and lace trimmed midriff tops… Brilliant red, orange, pink and saffron scarf prints as flowy maxi skirts and peasant tops… Scarf prints as classic Pucci shirts embellished with Swarovski crystal stones worn with wide leg pants. The shirts and blouses are amazing. Jet beads wrapped around neckline chokers and a strand that hung bellow the collarbone with a crucifix, and jet bead earrings dusted the shoulders. There was a balance of go-with-the-flow femme, or the total opposite with masculine references. Le Smoking as tuxedo jackets with bra tops over shirts and tuxedo pants. Classic YSL influences of peasant and Le Smoking with an opulent Seventies attitude. Sheer burnout brocade… Lingerie touches with lace ruffles… Encrusted, beaded, and jeweled minis. Gold! Lamé, lamé and more lamé! Sexy, sultry and Spanish-infused.

Shop Emilio Pucci’s Fall collection now on NeimanMarcus.com.

Bottega Veneta was modern and feminine – a spectacular show! Emerald green and deep violet corsets, fashioned with a subtle floral print, and crystal pleated skirts… A “lady” dress in turquoise with green subtle print… PVC and fabric mixes in sheath dresses, many with strategically placed clear panels — almost Sixties but did not get too retro. Geometric Art Deco beading and Art Deco prints, keeping with the 1920s overtones that are here in Milan. Deco inspired beading on slim sheath dresses… Jungle greens in silk mixed media… Black and White – which is everywhere – in a geometric block twin-set with organza detail black and white skirt… Sophisticated color mixes of ultra violet, navy and copper… Flutter panels on strict dresses… Clutches in mixed snakeskin, woven totes, signature to the house, in spice shades, and wide strap sandals on a heel with a mix of matte and shine finishes. A perfect continuation of the standout Fall collection!

Shop Bottega Veneta’s Fall collection now on NeimanMarcus.com.

Va Va Versace! There are none of the prevalent Twenties or flapper dress references here! Instead, a gold studded rock and roll fantasy with a light nod to the Grecian goddess. White is seen as a short suit, gold studded white leather jacket, perforated white leather, and white Lucite platform wedges and stilettos. Crystal pleated flyaway panels created a goddess flow to structured skirts and gold shell motif studs. Sorbet shades and a print with underwater motifs of shells, starfish and sea horses. Mint green leather with allover gold studs as a mini dress. Sophisticated mixes of white and dove gray, yellow with lime and mint, and white and rocker black – all with gold studs. Gold zip details on everything. Pleated evening gowns with deep V necklines and embellished belts. Starfish and underwater motifs in large clear stones decorate bodices, waistlines and skirts in all-white red carpet gowns. Super sexy and super Versace!

Shop Versace’s Fall collection now on NeimanMarcus.com.

© 2002 Felicia Webb

Beauty: It’s a loaded word for most women, wrapped up in feelings of self-worth and self-improvement. It’s connected to social power and social pressure. It’s at the core of multi-billion dollar industries that promise, with the right products and procedures, beauty is within reach.

Beauty Culture, the exhibit running through November 27 at the Annenberg Space for Photography in Los Angeles, deconstructs society’s complicated relationship with female beauty. Featuring works from more than 100 acclaimed beauty, fashion and fine art photographers like Herb Ritts and David LaChappelle, the exhibit explores how cultural ideals and expectations of beauty have evolved in the last two centuries. It illustrates the stunning power of the still image to shape how we see ourselves.

© 2009 Fadil Berisha