Designer Lela Rose’s signature whimsy and elegance is expressed beautifully throughout the interior of her Tribeca home (an old commercial fabric warehouse) which she and her husband converted and built into a residence. After converting the space into 3 livable floors Rose began making it a home for her family. “I like to use fabric from past collections for re-upholstery projects here and there, like the fabric I used on my sofa cushion,” says Rose.
The living room in designer Lela Rose's Tribeca home.
The Texas native acknowledges that living in New York City is “of course very different” than growing up in Dallas. “Living on the ground floor, as opposed to an apartment, gives a semblance of living in a home—with lots of street theater.” Rose adores the liveliness and fun she and her family have in this house. “There is always something going on, from people dropping in for dinner to just hanging on the stoop, watching NYC as it goes by.” The rawness of the exterior mixed with the nostalgia of the interior expresses Rose’s elegant outlook on life.
Designer Lela Rose cooking dinner in her kitchen.
“I started collecting photographs in high school and have added to my collection over the years.” Most are black-and-white photographs (William Wegman, Ruth Orkin, Robert Doisneau, and more) there are some beautiful drawings as well (Russell Crotty, Vija Celmins.) The chairs in the front room are hand-me-downs from Rose’s mother. “When my mother owned them, they were covered in just the original padding and she had asked an artist to do drawings on them based on “The Little Prince.” It wasn’t until Rose was planning the home that she thought of the chairs. “I thought they would be perfect for that space as they didn’t necessarily match the rest of the décor, and I long had wanted to bead and embroider some chairs. I designed an embroidery based on one I had used in a past collection,” says Rose.
As Rose continues to evolve her collection and her home, one thing remains true – her vision and passion to stay true to who she is.
Rose's collection of black-and-white photographs mixed with beautiful drawings.
Designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs take a bow after their Spring 2013 show.
Cofounded in 2009 by London native Carly Cushnie and her fellow Parsons grad, Maryland-born Michelle Ochs, Cushnie et Ochs has earned a reputation for meticulous tailoring and silhouettes with high-def allure. For Spring 2013, the collection takes its inspiration from Ochs’ ancestry—she’s half Filipino—and draws upon the country’s architectural shapes, native flowers, and fluid, draped beachwear.
Cushnie et Ochs, Spring 2013.
Cushnie et Ochs, Spring 2013.
Cushnie et Ochs is available in select Neiman Marcus stores.
For all the talk about the death of print, some of the world’s most imaginative imagery can be found in the pages of magazines. For proof, look no further than Magazine Café, a midtown Manhattan destination (and, lucky us, an equally comprehensive website magazinecafestore.com) where the visually obsessed can spend hours poring over some 10,000 domestic and international titles—more than 400 in the women’s fashion category alone. Love, i-D, and Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book are all here, of course, as is every edition of Elle, Vogue, Marie Claire, Glamour, and Harper’s Bazaar, plus a slew of esoteric finds, from German streetwear mag High Snobiety to Egg, which celebrates the blonde-wigged teens of Japan’s gyaru style tribe. Back issues are a specialty. Bonus: Magazine Café also offers subscriptions.
There are guys out there who just throw things together, and it works. Then there are the rest of us. We have to think about it. We have to learn. Sometimes, we have to try hard without looking as if we’re trying at all. I say there’s nothing wrong with stealing a little style. Prints dominated the market for early spring, from ’40s-style geometrics to vivid florals, checks, and plaids. During the shows in New York, Milan, and Paris, I saw guys on the street rocking multiple prints at once. I’m not sure who was leading whom, because on the runway (notably at Etro, Givenchy, Burberry, and Gucci) I saw patterned suits with contrasting shirts and ties. There were casual incarnations, too, with clashing polos and chinos. You might want to ease into this trend. Accomplish that by grounding a print with a solid. If you choose a printed jacket and shirt, wear solid pants. If that’s still too much print for you, start slower. How about a tie or pocket square in a bold print? (Tom Ford offers the ultimate in printed ties this season.) Or maybe a short-sleeve shirt in a mini floral like those from Etro? Any would look great with a basic jacket. For the daring and runway-inspired, go ahead, take a risk. Let your imagination run wild. Be the ultimate peacock. Perhaps the most dynamic print options are from Givenchy—toy fighter jets (inspired by designer Riccardo Tisci’s childhood) in a clash with oversize paisleys. There’s no wrong way to mix, but a good rule of thumb is to vary scale and stay with colors in the same family. Keep your eyes open when you see another man’s style you like, whether on the runway or the street. And just this once, forget what you’ve been taught about stealing.
Handbag designer Rafé Totengco is the definition of a jet-setter. In the past year alone, he has vacationed in Honolulu, Manila, Berlin, Mallorca, Prague, Venice, Jodpur, Capri, Lisbon and Bali. Each trip not only served as an escape from the office, but a design cultivation journey in search of inspiration from local art, architecture and geography. A recent trip to China and a stop at the Shanghai World Fair resulted in a glamourous evening clutch. The design of Totengco’s Maryanne minaudiere is a handheld interpretation of architect Carlos Couto’s Portuguese Pavilion, the structure Portugal developed for the expo.
Totengco's interpretation of Couto's building was created with faceted hammered brass and stainless steel.
Galleries devoted to "Flora World." Gucci Museum, Florence, Italy.
Milan may be Italy’s fashion capital. But Florence, arguably the country’s top cultural destination, is the place to soak up the history of style. Ferragamo has long operated a museum devoted to its inspired shoe designs here. Now another hometown house expands the field with Gucci Museo (guccimuseo.com).
Gucci Museo.
Overlooking the landmark Piazza della Signoria in a 14th-century palazzo, the 18,460-square-foot showcase begins with a look at the original 1920s luggage designs produced by Guccio Gucci (after serving as a bellman at London’s Savoy Hotel) and continues with vitrines devoted to early classic floral collections and bamboo-handled bags. From horse tack to a 1979 Cadillac—even a neon orange surfboard— the collection ventures as far and wide as the imaginations of the house’s designers. Formal showstoppers, including a 2011 ostrich feather gown worn at the Oscars by Hilary Swank, boast their own dramatically lit gallery.
Vintage luggage at Florence's Gucci Museo.
Fashion isn’t the only draw. On the second of the museum’s three levels, a contemporary art gallery rotates pieces from the Francois Pinault Collection and screens experimental video art. The museum is also a destination for pasta nibblers and espresso sippers thanks to its ground-floor cafe with a library-like communal table strewn with Rizzoli art books, also on sale in the in-house bookshop. An adjoining space lures shoppers with the Icon Collection, dealing period Gucci designs ranging from the “Flora” scarf to the “New Jackie” handbag. Nice touch: Half of the 6-euro admission benefits the preservation and restoration of Florence’s art treasures. —Elaine Glusac
Marina Bulgari is the granddaughter of Sottiro Bulgari, founder of the renowned Italian jewelry company Bulgari. During her tenure at the family business, Marina created several of their enduring best-sellers. In 1978, she founded her own luxury brand, Marina B, designing an incredible succession of iconic and legendary jewelry.
Marina B Trisola bangle.
Over the next two decades Bulgari continued to design collections filled with eye-catching statement pieces that mixed classicism and modernity, and color and contrast. Bulgari’s jewelry was worn by an array of celebrities such as actress Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Julia Roberts and Princess Grace. Although Bulgari stopped designing jewelry in 1996, her legacy of legendary work continued to live on with the relaunch of the brand in 2010.
“The spirit of Marina B lies in creating exclusive, innovative handmade jewelry with a distinct boldness of style and richness in color, while using the finest quality diamonds and gemstones. We pride ourselves in upholding only the highest possible standards of craftsmanship,” says Marina B CEO Paul Lubetsky.
The original Trisola bangle sketch.
Today, all of the jewelry is still handmade in Italy including rings and bangles in the Trisola collection (a collection originally started by Bulgari herself.) “We were delighted when we found the unfinished project at our atelier,” say Lubetsky. Our Italian workshop and our current design team worked in collaboration with our jewelers for over 9 months to complete the Trisola bangle and ring set.
The Trisola collection is made with a process of wrapping and interlocking strips of gold around a “die.” This process is known in Italy as “tubogas” and was pioneered by Marina Bulgari during her time as CEO of her family business. To this day, this process remains one of the most iconic examples of her legacy at Bulgari. This process is used in the Trisola collection, which according to Lubetsky, is one of the most challenging shapes ever attempted in “tubogas” work. There are thirteen steps to the process of completing one Trisola bangle.
See below as master jeweler Giuseppe creates a Trisola bangle at the factory in Italy.
Giuseppe melts gold, which is necessary to make "tubogas" stripes.
Giuseppe rolls the gold into the "tubogas" stripes.
Turning the "tubogas" on the Marina B shape by hand (a process that takes days to complete.)
Shaping the gold for the handmade components.
Final cleaning and polishing.
Marina B is available in select Neiman Marcus stores.
KD: Diane, you know my story of meeting you many years ago. It was 1974, perhaps 1976, when you were traveling the country launching your now famous wrap dress. My mother brought me to a department store in Seattle to meet you.
DVF: Darling, you must have been very young.
KD: I was very young—as were you.
DVF: The wrap dress was in jersey. I was not the first designer to create in jersey, certainly, but I loved how jersey molded to the body. It gave the dress a great sensuality, a sensual quality that makes the dress as modern today as when I designed it.
KD: I remember you in that wrap dress like it was yesterday. I might have been 8 or 9 years old at the time. You were the most glamorous and exotic woman I had ever seen—and, mind you, my mother was pretty glamorous in my eyes. You were like a feline behind a glass-top desk, with your long legs stretched to the side in suede boots.
DVF: I still wear suede boots, darling. [She kicks her legs from behind the desk to expose her suede boots.]
KD: Your wild mane of hair, that frosty eye makeup, that accent, and that wrap dress! I had never seen or heard anything like you! I was mesmerized.
DVF: That is so sweet you remember, darling.
KD: My mother pushed me to the edge of the desk. I was so nervous, so intimidated, yet captivated by your beauty, your presence. In that gorgeous accent, you asked me “Darling, darling, what are you doing here?” I replied, “I want to work in fashion.” You told me “Darling, you will! You can be anything you want to be.” I realized that day I had to work in fashion and be surrounded by people like you.
DVF, Spring 2013.
DVF: And look, darling, today you are a famous fashion director and we all work together.
KD: I don’t know about famous, but my destiny was certainly set because of your encouraging words—and, of course, a determined mother.
DVF: I am so happy we are friends—I love that I encouraged you.
KD: You encourage so many in our industry, not just me. You are like the Fairy Godmother of Fashion. When you became the president of the CFDA [Council of Fashion Designers of America] in 2006, you were the perfect choice. You are such a nurturing and loving individual. Your caring spirit is contagious.
DVF: We are all one big family in fashion, darling. Yes, we are competitive, but we are a family. I want for everyone to feel welcome. I want everyone to succeed. When I became the president of the CFDA, the first thing I did was to welcome many more designers to the CFDA. There is nothing like the CFDA anywhere else in the world. We are very fortunate to have such a great organization to support our American talents, to nurture emerging designers, and to help designers in so many ways. I am very proud of the talents that are in America.
KD: You being one of them! Your love of the industry, your love of life, your love of people is so inspiring.
DVF: Love is life, darling. That’s what I believe.
KD: And your shows—I love, love, love them! Your shows are one of the most exciting moments during New York Fashion Week. Your front row is the Who’s Who of the worlds of fashion, literature, art, news media. There is a chaotic, joyous pandemonium that fills the tent. So much anticipation and so much love for you, your show. It really is like being with family.
DVF: It is family, darling. I surround myself with love—people I love, the things I love, work I love. I always tell the girls, “Smile, be happy, joyous!” No one ever tells the models to smile. I want the show to be fun and filled with love. I want people to feel the love of DVF and the happiness my clothes can bring.
KD: Your spring runway show was full of color and confidence; it was intoxicating.
DVF: The theme was “Palazzo,” inspired by my travel and faraway places.
Ken and Diane at DVF's studio in NYC.
KD: I don’t know how you do all you do. You are always on a plane, off to China, Brazil, Bhutan…
DVF: I find inspiration when I travel, the cultures, the people.
KD: You are the original bohemian!
DVF: I love to wander the world and find inspiration. Nature always inspires me as well.
KD: And you love color, it is one of your trademarks and, of course, your love of prints. I was crazy for the combinations of turquoise blue, the bright greens, and how you mixed pale apricot with bright orange. Aqua with orange, outrageous! You know how insane I am for orange this season—it is my new neutral.
DVF: And black and white! Black and white is very DVF, especially with pink. Black and white is such a perfect base of a women’s wardrobe. It’s graphic, and color plays so wonderfully against it.
KD: There is nothing more chic than black and white. And, of course, I adore hot pink always!
DVF: Every shade of pink, darling. Color is so inspiring to me. I find inspirations everywhere.
KD: Your studio here in New York’s Meatpacking District is visual stimulation at every turn.
DVF: It is very eclectic, full of many memories and souvenirs.
KD: Do you find you are inspired to create by what is missing in your own wardrobe?
DVF: I was told by a dear friend, a fashion designer who is a man, this is why I am comfortable saying this to you: “Men design costumes, women design clothes.” I am always thinking about what I want to wear next, how to make my wardrobe, a woman’s wardrobe, easy, effortless. When a woman opens her closet, she should see her friends—clothes she loves and loves to wear. That is what DVF is all about. Great clothes. Great color. Clothes that make her confident, that make her seductive, that make her beautiful!
“Manrepelling: outfitting oneself in a sartorially offensive way that will result in repelling members of the opposite sex. Such garments include but are not limited to harem pants, boyfriend jeans, overalls, shoulder pads, full length jumpsuits, jewelry that resembles violent weaponry and clogs.” —Leandra Medine, author of The Man Repeller.
Medine has been documenting her fashion-forward ensembles on her blog (ManRepeller.com) since 2010. This Spring, Medine’s love for fashion is revealed in her first design collaboration with Los Angeles-based contemporary brand, PJK. Printed silk organza, leather moto pants and lace lined pajama tops – a man repeller’s dream – make up the PJK collection. “Cool dude,” says Leandra in regard to the collaboration. Medine debuted the line last week at Dallas-NorthPark.
NM: Why did you decide to collaborate with PJK on a collection?
LM: I met with Chelsea [creative director of PJK] in New York a little over a year ago. Our vibes were so different but still complementary, it was an easy transition to decide to wrk together.
NM: How do you think your collection for PJK represents your style?
LM: It’s playful and irreverent, which is so much what I try to reflect on my website. It’s not too serious and neither am I.
Man Repeller x PJK Collection
NM: How has your style evolved since you started your blog in 2010?
LM: I’ve become a lot simpler. In the beginning I was trying really hard to take everything in quite literally. In the last six months my style has become quite streamlined. I’m always wearing some variety of denim and plaid, a blazer or a suit. I don’t know if that’s a testament to the evolution of fashion or myself just finding my own personal style niche.
NM: What is it about plaid that you are loving right now?
LM: Nothing in particular other than the fact that it is so casual; my vibe is very casual right now. I like the disconnect of a plaid shirt with a pair of organza shorts (like the pair I’m wearing right now) with a pair of lace-up sandals. It’s never about committing to one style cue.
NM: What inspires you most in terms of style?
LM: Traveling. Going to different cities and seeing how they do it there and how it’s different from the way I do it. Comparing and contrasting what works and what doesn’t and then coming up with something new.
Man Repeller Leandra Medine at NM Dallas-NorthPark.
NM: What was your last clothing designer purchase?
LM: A Dries Van Noten dress (I bought in Paris last week.) It’s floral print on one side and plaid on the other, tea-length, spaghetti strap, very feminine dress – a cute little nod to the 90s.
NM: You just completed fashion month. What Fall 2013 collections are you most excited about?
LM: Comme des Garcons, Chloe and Rag & Bone
Autographing a t-shirt for a fan.
Favorite…
Icon: Fran Lebowitz, Joan Didion and Frank Sinatra
