Lifestyle

Seeing Things: Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf’s

Bergdorf Goodman founders Nena and Andrew Goodman circa1939, from the documentary Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf's.

Bergdorf Goodman founders Nena and Andrew Goodman circa1939, from the documentary Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf's.

Surely you’ve heard about Bergdorf Goodman’s big birthday? When our sister store turned 111 last year, one of the celebration’s high points was the world premiere of Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf’s. Now the documentary is getting a spring theatrical release. Director Matthew Miele has put together 86 minutes of history and charm, weaving stories from longtime BG associates and interviews with fashion A-listers including Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Michael Kors, Ashley Olsen, and Mary-Kate Olsen. Dates vary by city, so watch your local listings starting in May.

Categories: Lifestyle » Books & Media, Lifestyle | Tagged ,

Lifestyle // Women's

Seeing Things: Magazine Café

For all the talk about the death of print, some of the world’s most imaginative imagery can be found in the pages of magazines. For proof, look no further than Magazine Café, a midtown Manhattan destination (and, lucky us, an equally comprehensive website magazinecafestore.com) where the visually obsessed can spend hours poring over some 10,000 domestic and international titles—more than 400 in the women’s fashion category alone. Love, i-D, and Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book are all here, of course, as is every edition of Elle, Vogue, Marie Claire, Glamour, and Harper’s Bazaar, plus a slew of esoteric finds, from German streetwear mag High Snobiety to Egg, which celebrates the blonde-wigged teens of Japan’s gyaru style tribe. Back issues are a specialty. Bonus: Magazine Café also offers subscriptions.

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Lifestyle

Shelf Life: Radius Books

Santa Fe, New Mexico, might seem an unlikely spot for a boutique publishing house—and a nonprofit, no less. But not to Radius Books Publisher and Creative Director David Chickey, who “ended up in Santa Fe the same way a lot of people do, by happenstance. I came for a friend’s wedding and stayed.” That was 21 years ago. Chickey, who also serves as co-owner of Skolkin+Chickey design studio, founded Radius in 2007 with a group of similarly creative Santa Feans. Their mission: To encourage, promote, and publish books “of artistic and cultural value for a wide audience. Our projects are distinguished in both form and substance: beautiful objects by important artists of all ranks.” When Chickey says beautiful objects, he’s not kidding. The Radius catalog is studded with gems such as the limited-edition monograph of Los Angeles painter-sculptor Charles Arnoldi—presented in plywood as a nod to his iconic Chainsaw works in chiseled plywood. Or the archival print mounted to diasec to “reflect and refract” the watery image that accompanies Renate Aller: Oceanscapes—One View— Ten Years, by the German-born artist who has photographed the Atlantic Ocean from the same vantage point for a decade. But creating limited editions and trade books “respectful of artists” is only half the story. “It’s critically important for us as a nonprofit to get books out to an audience that otherwise wouldn’t see them,” says Chickey. To that end, Radius donates 300–500 titles of each book published to rural libraries, schools, and art programs, some 350 institutions in all. The Radius space on East Palace Avenue also serves as an exhibition gallery and home for artist talks, seminars, and workshops. “We try to expand the idea of what’s possible in a book form and what you can do with books,” says Chickey. We say, mission accomplished.

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Lifestyle // Women's

Seeing Things: Punk at The Met

A punk-influenced Chanel look shot by David Sims for March 2011 Vogue, part of the Met's upcoming "PUNK: Chaos to Couture."

A punk-influenced Chanel look shot by David Sims for March 2011 Vogue, part of the Met's upcoming "PUNK: Chaos to Couture."

Dig out those Dr. Martens, and start practicing your snarl. PUNK: Chaos to Couture takes over the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute May 9 through August 11. Acknowledging what curator Andrew Bolton calls punk’s “incendiary influence on fashion,” the multimedia exhibition will focus on how designers appropriated and adapted the visual symbols of punk’s anarchic DIY aesthetic. Will Anna Wintour pogo at the Gala Benefit? We doubt it. But just look at all the punk references on the Fall 2013 runways. It won’t be hard for attendees to get on theme.

Categories: Lifestyle » Art, Women's » Contemporary Fashion, Lifestyle » Culture, Leisure & Travel, Women's » Designer, Lifestyle | Tagged , ,

Lifestyle // Women's

On Set: China

NM China

This month, our NM crew flew a collective 120,000 miles, touching down in Shanghai for a four-day photo shoot that took us to cities and villages across eastern China. Our Shanghai-based producer and team scouted locations and joined models Xiao Meng and Bonnie Chen as de facto translators—a good thing, as neither photographer Alistair Taylor-Young, senior art director Lori Stadig, nor the rest of the nine-person creative team spoke a word in any of the 30 local Mandarin dialects. We can now say ni hao (neehow), hello; xie-xie (shiye shiye), thank you; and piao liang (pi-ao leeang), pretty!

NM China

NM China

Home and headquarters for a major portion of our shoot was Amanfayun, the almost indescribably beautiful Aman Resort spread, village-like, over nearly 35 acres of the Hangzhou Valley. Each day, we watched saffron-clad Buddhist monks trod the winding Fayun Pathway to one of seven nearby temples. (The most important, Lingyin Si, date from A.D. 326.) Breakfast was native longjing tea (Hangzhou is known as the Tea Capital of China) with steamed soy milk, beef noodle soup, barbecued pork dumplings, and, by special request, French-press coffee. Each night our pillows held a different gift—prayer beads, a miniature carved wood teapot, a paper parasol, a bit of silk.

NM China

NM China

In Lóngmén Zhèn village, the setting for our blue story, we swooned over adorable babies and watched old men smoke and talk over a teahouse game of authentic Chinese checkers. Most of the working-age residents, we learned, were on the clock at a badminton factory a few kilometers away.

NM China

Scouting in the 2,200-year-old city of Hangzhou (a major destination for Chinese tourists, thanks to mountain-ringed West Lake and the gardens that earned it a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation), we stumbled upon a traditional pharmacy teeming with dried herbs, roots, and all manner of healing concoctions. We ultimately settled on scenic travel billboards as our photo backdrop, shooting as locals zipped by on ancient bicycles retrofitted with electric motors. Dinner was BaBaoYa, or “treasured duck,” in which duck is stuffed, marinated, then sealed tight for cooking with layers of lotus leaf, parchment, and mud. Only the natives were brave enough to sample the deep-fried chicken feet.

NM China

The bullet train to Shanghai (first-class!) was as modern as the city, with electronic seats that recline to beds and LED speedometer displays. A day of rain transformed our plans into a chilly night shoot in the neon-lit Nanjing Road, where we rented a room in a side-street hotel so the model would have a warm place to change.

NM China

See the entire fashion spread in the March issue of The Book.

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Lifestyle // Women's

Seeing Things: SXSW


Leandra Medine, The Man Repeller

March 8 marks the kickoff of the 2013 SXSW Music and Media Conference, which opens with a five-day Interactive Festival and concurrent Film Conference before turning up the volume for the main attraction on March 12, when host city Austin, Texas, becomes one continuous, six-day-long concert. NM’s social media team is returning to cover the intersection of fashion and technology, the street style and the exclusive parties. Cusp by Neiman Marcus will host a pop-up shop for the new collection from top blogger Man Repeller, a beauty lounge, and a raging party with StyleCaster, all on Monday March 11.

 

Event is open to SXSW badge holders.

In addition, Neiman Marcus is speaking on two panels:

The Neighborhood at SXSW

Panel: Style to The People

When: Monday, March 11th, 4-5 PM CT

Where: 416 Cesar Chavez, Austin

Speakers:

Leandra Medine, Founder of TheManRepeller

Ari Goldberg, CEO and founder of StyleCaster

David Goldberg, President and co-founder of StyleCaster

Gabrielle de Papp, Vice President, Corporate Public Relations, Neiman Marcus

 

Next Stage at SXSW

Panel: Visual Voice: Branding on Photo Networks

When: Tuesday, March 12, 11 AM CT

Where: Austin Convention Center

Speakers:

Suzanne Schloot, Social Media Manager, Kate Spade

Natanya Anderson, Social Media and Community Team Lead, Whole Foods

Bonnie Tsang, independent photographer and Pinterest super influencer

Jean Scheidnes, Social Media Managing Editor, Neiman Marcus

Categories: Lifestyle » Books & Media, Women's » Contemporary Fashion, Lifestyle » Culture, Leisure & Travel, Lifestyle, Women's | Tagged ,

Lifestyle

On Set: The Resort Book on the French Riviera

Location, location, location. What they say about real estate also holds true in fashion photography. While the product is every bit as glamorous, creating those fantastical images was nothing short of hard work, carried out by a team of 13 pros—art directors, photographers, makeup artists, hair stylists, assistants, and models—who traveled from far-off places to the French Riviera and Monaco for a fashion shoot spanning five captivating days.

The famed Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, which sits on 17 acres located between Nice and Monaco, was the site of the first day of shooting. The rocky shore just below would mark the staging area overlooking the Mediterranean. While photographer Alistair Taylor-Young prepared for the day’s shoot schedule, model Sigrid Agren was coiffed by hair and makeup artist Pedro Pianto before hours of her standing stock-still in various challenging, yoga-like positions with a circlet of fresh flowers on the Martinique beauty’s head.

The second day of shooting took the team to the coastal mountain range Massif de l’Esterel. There, NM art director Lori Stadig instructed French workmen to haul a white wall onto the beach, an idea that was, at first, lost in translation. (A wall on a beach? Je ne comprends pas!) Also nonindigenous to the coastline was the espresso maker plugged into a generator and perched upon the rocks, providing an early morning jolt before the cameras started clicking again for Sigrid.

A change of theme, from floral romanticism to graphic intensity, was witnessed at yet another venue, the Monaco Heliport, where Polish model Zuzanna Bijoch had her moment on the helipad cantilevering the azure sea, as well as hours spent in the Nice Harbor, poised atop its flat-planed slabs of rock. Making the last day truly something of legend—even among world-traveled models—was the Bubble House, or “Palais Bulles,” Pierre Cardin’s former domicile, built in 1989. Designed by renowned architect Antti Lovag, the pod-house, with its panoramic views of the Mediterranean, was where Zuzanna beautifully shaped the looks pictured in the Evening Odyssey feature.

Images snapped by Stadig, Taylor-Young, and NM associate art director Devin Hall from their time in France. 

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Women's

How It’s Made: René Caovilla

The idea for the jeweled design of “Bollywood” ($1,395) came from an ancient Italian bracelet that has been in the Caovilla family since 1930. The initial design was drawn on paper, then adapted to the shape of the foot.

The idea for the jeweled design of “Bollywood” ($1,395) came from an ancient Italian bracelet that has been in the Caovilla family since 1930.

Rows of skilled artisans hunched over worktables, scrupulously cutting leather and forming the slivers into delicate adornments; placing crystals with surgeon-like dexterity onto the vamps of stilettos; stitching thousands of beads, sequins, and feathers by hand, one by one. This is the scene that greets visitors to the Venice villa workshop of shoemaker René Caovilla. Here, shoes are meticulously tooled into creations befitting a modern-day fairy tale. And that’s exactly how the calzolaio wants it.

A peak inside the René Caovilla compound.

The René Caovilla compound.

The second-generation shoemaker learned his craft at the apron of his father, Edoardo, who made shoes for the highest-echelon clientele—fusing art, Venetian craftsmanship, and jewelry making. The pupil studied well and followed in the Caovilla tradition. His reputation as a craftsman and couturier led to several esteemed creative partnerships. In the ’70s, Caovilla joined forces with designer Valentino Garavani, creating shoes under the label Valentino by René Caovilla—an association that lasted more than two decades. Another brush with high fashion was in the early ’90s when Dior came calling, followed by a five-year collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld.

Jeweled embroidery incorporates five sizes and 10 colors of Swarovski crystals —each one set by hand. The embroidery alone requires five hours of labor.

Jeweled embroidery incorporates five sizes and 10 colors of Swarovski crystals —each one set by hand. The embroidery alone requires five hours of labor.

It wasn’t until 2000 that Caovilla made the decision to focus all production efforts on the house’s eponymous brand. Shoes lavished with jewelry would be the epicenter of his artistic expression. The divine results have garnered a celeb following and the highest standing among shoe devotees and fashion’s elite. Simply put, a shoe by René Caovilla is nothing short of a masterpiece.

Five artisans work on each pair of sandals: one to create the embroidery, and four to craft the shoe’s other components—heel, platform, insole, and upper. A pair, from start to finish, is an 18-hour process.

Five artisans work on each pair of sandals: one to create the embroidery, and four to craft the shoe’s other components—heel, platform, insole, and upper. A pair, from start to finish, is an 18-hour process.

Categories: Women's » Accessories, Women's » Shoes, Women's | Tagged ,

Lifestyle // Women's

Seeing Things: The Diana Vreeland Documentary

Diana Vreeland surrounded by red furnishings- series, 1979

Diana Vreeland surrounded by red furnishings, 1979.

Valentino: The Last Emperor… The September Issue… Bill Cunningham New York. And now, Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel. The latest in a series of must-see fashion documentaries brings to life one of the style world’s most exotic, vibrant, and fabled characters. In a life roughly spanning the twentieth century, Vreeland more than merited her “Empress of Fashion” title: 26 years as fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar, editor-in-chief of Vogue through the cultural revolutions of the 1960s, and, at age 70, a post at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which she pushed into the vanguard with fashion exhibitions as imaginative and relevant as any the world had seen.

But those are just the facts. Much more interesting is the fantastical persona Vreeland invented for herself, becoming the star of her own glamorous and adventurous drama. First-time filmmaker Lisa Immordino Vreeland (wife of Vreeland’s grandson Alexander) brings it all vividly to life, weaving photographs, interviews, animation, clips of Vreeland’s television appearances, and voice-overs into a magical 86 minutes. “To say Diana Vreeland has dealt only with fashion trivializes what she has done,” Jackie Onassis once noted. “She has commented on the times in a wise and witty manner. She has lived a life.”

dianavreeland-film.com

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Lifestyle // Women's

At Your Service: Betty Lidji

We’ve often tried to imagine life as a Neiman Marcus sales associate, and we finally did something about it. We shadowed Betty Lidgi, a top associate at the NM flagship in downdown Dallas, for a morning.

8:30 AM: Betty Lidji has yet to arrive, but her office is ready for business: Three rolling racks, two tall enough to accommodate gowns, one already hung with an array of Hanro tanks and Cosabella mesh tees. A vignette of fragrance samples and instant-tanning mousse. Candy jars loaded with the chocolates she picks up on visits to her native Paraguay. And then there’s the glossy Haynsworth portrait of Betty’s “children”: Master Sable and Madame Coco, chihuahuas.

8:50 AM: Lidji rounds the corner, a pint-sized blur of blond and black, the heels of her slingbacks soundless on the thick, cream-colored carpet. Her greeting comes with enthusiasm and an accent to rival Sofia Vergara: “Oh good morning! How are you? Can’t I get you cappuccino? We have a very busy day!”

9 AM: Lidji joins some 60 other downtown sales associates seated on folding chairs in the fine apparel department. The theme of today’s staff meeting is, as it is most mornings, service. “How many of you have upgraded your iPhone applications?” asks general manager Shelle Sills. The phones offer access to any Neiman Marcus item, anywhere. Lidji uses hers like a second assistant. (Her first assistant, Kelsey Smith, handles appointments, messages, deliveries and anything else that might come up.)

Pep-rally applause greets Sills’ announcement that the downtown store ranks first in the company in customer service. It’s the job of the department co-manager Mathew Simon to reveal the previous month’s top associate: A beaming Betty Lidji. The 16-year NM vet [March  25, 1996] also is first in sales “out of home base,” meaning she’s as likely to help you find a handbag, earrings, lipstick, or pair of shoes as a dress from her home department.

9:30 AM: Sales associates preview of the day’s Sofia Cashmere trunk show. Betty listens, legs and hands politely crossed.

10 AM: Somewhere, the great Oz flips a switch and music (Yael Naim’s Come Home) emanates from the sound system, signaling the store is open. Lidji beelines it for a nearby rack. Her only appointment this morning is with long-time client Tricia Besing, who’s being photographed the following week by a local magazine. Lidji is fast. And decisive. Dresses in ivory crepe and navy jersey make the cut. A black-and-white tweed is “not what Tricia would like.” A quick drop-off at her office/dressing room and Lidji heads one floor down to pull shoes and jewelry. Then she’ll swing up to Intimate Apparel for Spanx.

11:00 AM: “I love selling fashion, you know?” says Lidji. Indeed. Her room now resembles a small but well-edited boutique. Half a dozen pairs of size 8 shoes rest atop their pale blue boxes. Sofas hold a selection of bags and a velvet-lined tray of jewelry.

Lidji dispatches Smith to alterations to retrieve pieces that have been shortened, lengthened, taken in, let out, and variously perfected for other Lidji customers by her favorite fitter, Silvia Rodela. One dress has been transformed from sleeveless to long sleeve. Who knew that was even possible? “We got fabric from the vendor,” explains Rodela with deserved pride. “Whatever pleases the customer.”

11:30 AM: Besing arrives, fresh from a workout. Lidji knows that she just returned from Europe—she saw the family photos on Facebook. Now more are shared via Besing’s iPhone. “Oh look at Ali, she’s growing up! She looks so pretty!” The women’s relationship stretches back ten years. Besing laughs recalling the time her husband accompanied her and fell asleep on the sofa in Lidji’s office.

Though Lidji works chiefly with 500 or so regular customers, she also loves being “on the floor.” She and Smith tag-team on the story of a woman and her daughter-in-law who recently visited from Norway. The women shopped all afternoon, returned the following day for lunch at The Zodiac, and the day after that to have their makeup done at the Le Métier de Beauté counter. All arranged by Lidji. Including “the most beautiful Alaïa dress to take home for the granddaughter back in Norway.”

12 Noon: Besing and Lidji land on a black silk Lanvin blouse and creamy ivory skirt with high side slits. (Rodela is summoned to make them more modest.)  While Lidji heads back out to find more shoes, the “young and fun and beautiful” jewelry she’s requested arrives. Besing hones in on a pair of Nicholas Varney coral earrings. The right one is “a little tight.” It’s marked to be adjusted before the photo shoot. The shoe department manager arrives with an armload of boxes. Besing slips on a pair of Guccis with slender straps and gold Art Deco trim. Another associate kneels to fasten the tiny buckles and Besing breaks into a wide smile. “Cinderella.”

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