Lifestyle
Out of Office: Spain
When in Sevilla...
I took a week off in May to visit a close friend in Spain. She’s the ultimate adventurer-seeker, having traded the fashion PR life in NYC to teach English in Madrid. With her guidance I experienced a non-touristy take on the country.
To Eat: The food was beyond delicious in Spain. The Spanish tend to rise late, take lunch somewhere around 3 or 4, then a siesta, and eat dinner at 10 pm or later.
Ham hangs from the ceiling at Museo del Jamón.
Ham (el jamon) is everywhere. Stop into a neighborhood ham shop and grab a baguette with the thinly sliced meat and cheese and sip on a glass of beer for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Mahou, a Spanish brew founded in 1890, is always on tap. Croquetas de jamón are another ham-filled Spanish favorite. These fritters, made with ham, eggs and milk, can be found on the menu anywhere from a street vendor to a five-star restaurant.
Mini hamburguesas at Juan Bravo 25
Many of the grassy medians in the middle of the calles (streets) serve as tapas dining destinations in Spain. We grabbed a table at Juan Bravo 25, just down the street from where we were staying in Madrid, and were served up mini hamburgers (which in Spain are actually made with ham), an onion salad topped with a fried egg and tuna tartare.
Tapas at Juan Bravo 25
On our last night in Madrid we met up with friends at Boggo, a hip, scenester spot for posh city kids or as they say in Spain, “pijos.” By midnight, the tapas restaurant morphs into a discoteca. The music blares, and inching your way up to the packed bar is all part of the “cool club” atmosphere.
Tinto de Veranos (Spain's summer sangria) at Boggo.
Mercado de San Miguel and other modern markets scattered around the Madrid feed Spain’s eat-a-little-drink-a-little culture. Not the kind of farmer’s market you might expect, these spaces have separate vendors selling Spanish staples like tapas, paella, helado, chocolate, cervezas, vino – all intended for downing at the counter and then hopping to the next.
Inside Mercado de San Miguel.
Paella
My friend’s friend and now my friend, Fernando, owns Bar Miguel Angel, a laidback local joint where stylish twenty-somethings grab their pre-club gin and tonics. Hendricks is poured over ice and handed to you with a small glass bottle of Schweppes tonic, making you the mixologist.
La Raza in Seville at the Parque de María Luisa.
La Raza in Sevilla is a delightful outdoor dining spot in the huge park in the center of the city. Stop here for a casual bite under the sprawling trees and then stroll through the expansive Parque de María Luisa, home to the grand Plaza de España landmark.
To Sleep: In Madrid I was lucky enough to live like a local and stay with my friend in an area known as Salamanca, a district only a street away from the city’s version of Rodeo Drive, Calle Serrano.
Hotel de Las Letras
But Madrid has no shortage of amazing hotels. We had drinks on the rooftop of Hotel De Las Letras overlooking the Gran Via, a bustling street with endless architectural sights. The boutique hotel housed in a 1917 Belle Époque building features vibrant, modern décor (walls are lined with quotes from famous authors) and dizzying staircases running with red velvet carpet.
Sevilla
We took the train south to Sevilla, land of sangria and flamenco, and stayed at Casa 1800 for a couple of nights. The 24-room boutique hotel is in the heart of the historical center and steps away from the Sevilla Cathedral (the world’s largest Gothic cathedral). It’s tucked in one of the narrow streets, but our rooftop room boasted plenty of space even a private outdoor hot tub that overlooked the cathedral and the winding streets below.
Detail of my room at Casa 1800 in Seville.
To Do: My trip involved lots of eating, drinking and relaxing – right on with the local pace of life – but Spain offers much to see and do beyond this. The country takes pride in its manicured parks and monuments. After visiting the Prado, take in some fresh air at Madrid’s luscious botanical gardens – Jardín Botanico – right next door to the museum. For an aerial view of Madrid hop inside a Teléferico Madrid cable car and soar 2.5 km over Casa de Campo, a vast park on the west side of the city.
Kicking back on the train from Madrid to Sevilla.
In Sevilla you could spend hours exploring Parque de María Luis with its ancient castle walls and Moroccan-influenced ceramic tile fountains.
Parque de María Luis
To Wear: I was blown away by how stylish everyone in Spain was. A neutral blouse, paired with a bright tailored pant or jean, a luxe leather handbag, statement earrings and high wedge espadrilles seemed to be the look of the moment.
Loewe store window
Luxury leather house Loewe has Madrilenian roots dating back to 1846, and the timeless brand has maintained its “it” bag status amongst the Spanish.
A small flower shop at Madrid boutique Raasta the Seed.
The place to shop Spain’s most famous shoe, the espadrille, is Castañer. The shop was founded in 1927 and has crafted espadrilles for Marc Jacobs, Kate Spade, and Hermès. The small, airy boutique—still the original location, in the central Salamanca district—has every possible espadrille style—platforms, slip-ons, adorned with ankle-wrap ribbons—in a multitude of colors and patterns.
