Runway Rewind: Milan Men’s Fashion Week
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sent a cast of everyday Sicilians down their Men’s Spring/Summer 2013 runway. The decision to ditch traditional models in favor of regular boys from small towns and villages was a reflection of the collection’s origin of inspiration and democratic wearability. A traditionally dressed Sicilian band set the cultural tone for the collection comprised of high-waisted cropped pleated pants, linen striped T-shirts, tank tops, and woven leather sandals.
Miuccia Prada went back to the basics – print-free, simplistic shapes – for her Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Seventies-inspired team colors – maroons, mustards, tans – worked with gym gear fit for an old school wrestling or bowling team – think oversized tanks, bowling shirts, sweat bands. Interspersed within the line-up of chiseled male models, Prada placed her women’s resort line, which sported similar athletic lines and hues.
This season Christopher Bailey added an element of fun into his typically masculine men’s wear collections. Flashes of metallic foil in cardigans, trenches, and baseball jackets illuminated darker slim fit navy and gray suits. Silk short-sleeve button front shirts in pajama-like prints topped with contrasting prints and/or Burberry’s never-fail basics continued the whimsical approach to rainy weather.
John Varvatos’ Spring/Summer 2013 collection was for the man who wants to look sleek but not stiff – signature to Varvatos’ rock n’ roll attitude. The mix of tailored touches – double breasted jackets, neckties and pocket squares – were juxtaposed with deliberately rough accessories such as wide brim straw hats, varnished canvas boots, and canvas duffels.
For Spring/Summer 2013, Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier offers a collection inspired by the ease and informality of the pullover. The near-universal garment recalls clothing as varied as naval uniforms and South Asian kurtas. At Bottega Veneta, it’s casual and lightweight, with a breezy, retro sensibility. Narrow, cropped pants worn with pullover shirts and T-shirts have the effortless feel of sportswear. The slim, natural-looking silhouette is enhanced by nuanced tailoring and offhand layering.