There are guys out there who just throw things together, and it works. Then there are the rest of us. We have to think about it. We have to learn. Sometimes, we have to try hard without looking as if we’re trying at all. I say there’s nothing wrong with stealing a little style. Prints dominated the market for early spring, from ’40s-style geometrics to vivid florals, checks, and plaids. During the shows in New York, Milan, and Paris, I saw guys on the street rocking multiple prints at once. I’m not sure who was leading whom, because on the runway (notably at Etro, Givenchy, Burberry, and Gucci) I saw patterned suits with contrasting shirts and ties. There were casual incarnations, too, with clashing polos and chinos. You might want to ease into this trend. Accomplish that by grounding a print with a solid. If you choose a printed jacket and shirt, wear solid pants. If that’s still too much print for you, start slower. How about a tie or pocket square in a bold print? (Tom Ford offers the ultimate in printed ties this season.) Or maybe a short-sleeve shirt in a mini floral like those from Etro? Any would look great with a basic jacket. For the daring and runway-inspired, go ahead, take a risk. Let your imagination run wild. Be the ultimate peacock. Perhaps the most dynamic print options are from Givenchy—toy fighter jets (inspired by designer Riccardo Tisci’s childhood) in a clash with oversize paisleys. There’s no wrong way to mix, but a good rule of thumb is to vary scale and stay with colors in the same family. Keep your eyes open when you see another man’s style you like, whether on the runway or the street. And just this once, forget what you’ve been taught about stealing.
NM’s Bruce Halus, VP of men’s clothing, ensures that our stores are stocked with the most exceptional menswear the market has to offer. So when Aquaspider, a water resistant fabric milled exclusively for Isaia, splashed onto the suit scene, Halus, an avid paddle boarder, was intrigued.
Aquaspider’s tailored technology is obtained at the fiber level, allowing the fabric to take on a wrinkle, stain, and water resistant quality. This unique fabrication not only grants the garment to breathe and retain its original hand (feel), it gives the material a natural stretch that moves and molds to the wearer’s body.
Like any NM buyer, Halus wanted to really test the claims of Aquaspider before the new product made its way into stores. So on a routine morning before work he tied up his paddle board and drove to nearby White Rock Lake for a sunrise cruise. But on this particular morning, he traded his typical wet suit for a Neapolitan-made Isaia suit.
Halus set sail with ease and confidence, noting Aquaspider’s flexibility as he took on the open water. As for water resistance, (like a paddle board pro Halus didn’t go overboard) the waves failed to inflict water damage distress.
The wet suit takes on a whole new meaning.
This animation accompanying NM’s 2012 Christmas Book makes us a little giddy for the upcoming season.
Illustrator Elvis Swift collaborated with art director Janet Longstreth, who directed model Karlie Kloss based on their vision, then Janimation, a Dallas-based company, brought it all together. Look for more Elvis Swift illustrations from NM throughout the season.
Fall presents so many opportunities to upgrade your style. My friend Brett Fahlgren is GQ‘s executive merchandising stylist. We got together to discuss Fall’s key trends and address some of the most common questions guys ask when I’m making my rounds of NM stores.
What do you wear when an invitation says creative black tie? We break out of the black-tie box and explain what the alternative evening wear trend is all about.
This season suits are textured and in slimmer proportions. Whether you favor houndstooth or windowpane, we are here to help you shop and style the season’s patterned suit.
Men’s wear has been a consistent source of inspiration for women’s ready-to-wear, appearing in borrowed-from-the-boys fabrics and tailoring. Although, lately it’s the way men style their outfits that I find most inspiring. It’s the creative layering of mixed patterns, and the individualized look they create that is covet-worthy. Naturally Eddie Nunns, NM’s VP of Creative, has an eye for design and it shows in his daily pattern-mixing ensembles.
Nunns’ attributes his keen sense of mixing patterns to his graphic design background. Always being drawn to crisp graphics – stripes, checks, and plaids. “I’ve never been a floral or paisley kind of guy, I love the sense of order that linear patterns lend to fabrics,” says Nunns. He creates interesting looks by playing with the scale of geometrics together.
Nunns describes himself as a classicist. “I love how there is this trend in reinventing the classics.” A repp stripe tie is thinner than it was 10 years ago. Gingham shirts are in unexpected colors now. Brogue wing-tips are chunkier and color is being added to the soles and heels of the shoes. A seersucker suit is trim and fitted, “not baggy like Colonel Sanders,” says Nunns. These are the details that push “old school” into modernity.
To see more of Nunns’ daily looks check out our Facebook page.
Hi guys. Remember when we showed you the craftsmanship that goes into made-to-measure tailoring? Now that you understand the journey of the product (from Naples perhaps,) I wanted to give you a sense of the MTM customer’s experience. And who better to guide us than Bruce Halus, VP of tailored clothing?
There is a tell for a made-to-measure suit. The buttonholes on the jacket cuff are functional. That might seem irrelevant, but once it’s your cuff that’s casually unbuttoned, revealing a treasured pair of cufflinks, you might never look at a jacket cuff the same way again. Wearing a made-to-measure suit is a game changer.
The fit speaks for itself. It’s a powerful thing to step into a suit made just for you. A man in even simple navy wool—which is a great starter—will stand out. There is an extra touch of sophistication.
A lot of guys I know worry most about the time going made-to-measure involves. But in the long run, you’re actually saving time. The fitting can take about 30 minutes, but you only have to do it once. The tailors will measure your chest, collar, inseam and arm length. Then all the info is kept on file. Unless you go on a crazy diet (we won’t even mention the opposite option), your only subsequent work will be sifting through fabric swatches. And waiting patiently for six to eight weeks.
This can be fun. I was surprised how interested I was in the process the first time I ordered a suit. I didn’t realize I could customize the lapel of a Brioni jacket, or switch an Ermenegildo Zegna to a double vent. It was like picking out features on a sports car. And, sure enough, once I got it back and saw my name monogrammed on the inside breast pocket, I started considering the next one.
Come to think of it, there are two tells for a made-to-measure suit. The second is how man stands. It might be the confidence that comes with knowing he’s the only one in the world with this suit. Because he made it.
The Made-to-Measure Event runs through August 26 in Neiman Marcus stores.
As the man who develops the cocktails and wine selections for Neiman Marcus restaurants, “wine guy” Frank Zack gets to drink for a living – and in some swell places, no less. So you can be sure that when he got married in Provincetown, Massachusetts and honeymooned in Martha’s Vineyard, it was a delicious affair. The celebration kicked off with the guests’ welcome gift—a bottle of Truro Vineyards Cabernet Franc. The party continued, at the wedding, with white Burgundy, Rhone, Champagne and local beers served alongside mini lobster rolls, and whole lobsters at the wedding reception. The lobster roll extravaganza continued into their honeymoon. “We ate every lobster roll in sight, some version of it every day,” says Zack.
Cape Cod According to Zack:
To eat: Lobster! Lobster and shrimp frittata at Cafe Edwige in Provincetown and lobster rolls at Aquinnah Cliffs.
To drink: Patio has the best white sangria.
To do: Vintage shopping at Marine Specialties (our new favorite store).
To see: Sit on the porch at the Anchor Inn and watch the world go by.
To wear: Boat shoes every day and Bermuda shorts.
Photography by Jon Flaugh.
Now that he’s back, our men’s fashion director reflects on his ten favorite moments of the Florence-Milan-Paris show circuit. There were perks!
#1 Meeting Jil Sander! What an amazing woman. Her passion for men’s clothing is next-level. Welcome back!
#2 Gucci show. Super chic. Loving all the color.
#3 Riding the ferris wheel in Paris on the last night. A new vantage point.
#4 The mystical magic that was the Thom Browne show.
#5 Dinner at Dave in Paris. Meeting of the minds. Fashion Directors Only!!
#6 Alexander McQueen presentation. Love all the intricate details. I also have a soft spot for dragonflies.
#7 Walking Paris in the evening. The lighting around 9:30-10:30pm is spectacular.
#8 Givenchy. Givenchy. Givenchy.
#9 FaceTime on the iPad with my family back home.
#10 Pitti Uomo! I always love the energy at the trade fair in Florence.
Sweet relief from the heat of Milan! In Paris it’s always intriguing to see the creativity of the fashion students who crash the line for shows, alongside the pros. Everywhere, I’ve noticed bold prints, fleece crewnecks (often with backpacks) and a few monochromatic looks as well. When we can get away from the runways for a while, we scope indie brands at the trade shows. At the Capsule Show, guys looked deliberately casual, as they have for most of PFW.
See more men’s summer style at NeimanMarcus.com and Neiman Marcus stores.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sent a cast of everyday Sicilians down their Men’s Spring/Summer 2013 runway. The decision to ditch traditional models in favor of regular boys from small towns and villages was a reflection of the collection’s origin of inspiration and democratic wearability. A traditionally dressed Sicilian band set the cultural tone for the collection comprised of high-waisted cropped pleated pants, linen striped T-shirts, tank tops, and woven leather sandals.
Miuccia Prada went back to the basics – print-free, simplistic shapes – for her Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Seventies-inspired team colors – maroons, mustards, tans – worked with gym gear fit for an old school wrestling or bowling team – think oversized tanks, bowling shirts, sweat bands. Interspersed within the line-up of chiseled male models, Prada placed her women’s resort line, which sported similar athletic lines and hues.
This season Christopher Bailey added an element of fun into his typically masculine men’s wear collections. Flashes of metallic foil in cardigans, trenches, and baseball jackets illuminated darker slim fit navy and gray suits. Silk short-sleeve button front shirts in pajama-like prints topped with contrasting prints and/or Burberry’s never-fail basics continued the whimsical approach to rainy weather.
John Varvatos’ Spring/Summer 2013 collection was for the man who wants to look sleek but not stiff – signature to Varvatos’ rock n’ roll attitude. The mix of tailored touches – double breasted jackets, neckties and pocket squares – were juxtaposed with deliberately rough accessories such as wide brim straw hats, varnished canvas boots, and canvas duffels.
For Spring/Summer 2013, Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier offers a collection inspired by the ease and informality of the pullover. The near-universal garment recalls clothing as varied as naval uniforms and South Asian kurtas. At Bottega Veneta, it’s casual and lightweight, with a breezy, retro sensibility. Narrow, cropped pants worn with pullover shirts and T-shirts have the effortless feel of sportswear. The slim, natural-looking silhouette is enhanced by nuanced tailoring and offhand layering.