Women's
Conversation With: Erdem Moralioglu
Ken and Erdem race across the Place du Louvre in Paris.
NM Fashion Director Ken Downing reconnects with designer Erdem Moralioglu at the Louvre in Paris — and uncovers the passion behind the patterns.
KEN DOWNING: Talking about international bright young things is an ongoing conversation in the world of fashion. When the chatter stops, what excites me most is actual talent. You, my dear friend, are the real deal. I have been impressed since the first time we met in London.
ERDEM MORALIOGLU: You are very kind. It was almost six years ago. I was only 27, and you were at my very first show… It was at the V&A [Victoria and Albert Museum in London]. Funnily enough, the collection was lace and unusual birds and lots of pleated details.
KD: I remember your first collection like it was yesterday. Gorgeous color! And the reembroidered laces were exquisite. Very haute couture in technique. A romantic nod to the old-world idea of dressmaking, but so fresh in the hands of a young talent. You seem to have added something new to your design vocabulary these days—printed sequins, so chic.
Laughing it off.
EM: I am obsessed with handwork, and have been since I created my first collection. It is an important part of my philosophy. A machine simply can’t replace the beautiful work done by the human hand. I am attracted to things that are refined and special, it’s what inspires me as a designer. I create all of my very own textiles so that they are one of a kind, superspecial, something that you will not see anywhere else. The printed sequins in the floral patterns were a reaction against the deep saturated colors of fall. I wanted the prints to shine.
KD: Your work in this area is unique and so modern, yet plays perfectly back to your love of lace and color.
EM: I adore prints. I create many of them on my computer, or I digitally manipulate actual textiles. It has become my signature and passion.
Erdem
KD: What inspires you? Or, maybe I should ask, who inspires you?
EM: My mother is British—such an Anglophile—and my father is Turkish. I was born in Canada but am technically a Brit, so you can imagine the many influences I had growing up. My dad is such a Turk, so my color sense is greatly inspired by that part of the world. I am a huge fan of the late Yves Saint Laurent, as well. Such an amazing colorist! He always inspires me.
KD: I agree. I love a Saint Laurent moment. His repertoire is enormous. No wonder we get along…When did you first realize you were interested in fashion?
EM: I love Elsa Klensch. I was obsessed with her on CNN, and Jeanie Becker and Tim Blanks on Fashion File.
KD: I loved Elsa Klensch, as well. My sense is that her backstage look into this world inspired many of us. Rather revolutionary at the time.
EM: So true. I grew up dreaming about Paris and living in the glamorous world of fashion.
KD: I did, too, and now here we are in Paris, living our dream. Of course, most people don’t realize that glamour is such a small part of what we do.
EM: But it is very glamorous being here with you!
Read the entire conversation in the March issue of The Book.
Shop Erdem at NeimanMarcus.com and Neiman Marcus stores.
