Women's

Women's

Roksanda Illincic, Fall 2011, London

Roksanda IllincicGlamour and comfort don’t always go together, but Roksanda Illincic is known for both. Michelle Obama wore a coat and beaded wool satin dress from Illincic’s Fall 2010 collection to meet the Chinese president Hu Jintao in January. Illincic’s Fall 2011 collection had her trademark, fluid evening dresses saturated with color like precious gems. But she also showed sportier pieces for day, and draped dresses that could take the cool girl from day to evening with effortless panache.

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Women's

Temperley London, Fall 2011

Temperley

Inspired by decorative Venetian fans, Alice Temperley’s decidedly glamorous Fall 2011 collection focused on eveningwear, cocktail attire and knits. The neutral palette of champagne, cream, gold, and black with shots of red and cinnamon in luxurious satin, silk, beading, and lace gave opulence to the elongated silhouettes of draped satin dresses and flowing evening jumpsuits.

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Women's

Ralph Lauren’s Shanghai Express

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren’s show on the last day of New York Fashion Week was not merely gorgeous; it was a testament to the brand’s protean power. Mr. Lauren has always known how to work a theme, but China — something entirely distant from Americana or prep — is new territory for this collection. Specifically, the show romanticized Shanghai in the Thirties with touches of Chinoiserie, Art Deco, and red and jade within a lustrous, glossy black wardrobe. A heady evening sensibility pervaded all the gowns, les smokings and sumptuous coats. Details celebrated the most refined traditional crafts of China, but in essentially the collection adhered to an American definition of elegance and classic style. These Americans simply seemed more worldly than ever.

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Women's

Marchesa’s Great Expectations

MarchesaYou know the tale. Miss Havisham gets jilted in her youth, and despite her significant fortune, locks herself in a tattered wedding fantasy for the rest of her miserable life. Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig spun the yarn into an opulent, erotic reverie with Victorian and Spanish flourishes. Whether bursting with volumes of tulle, covered in baroque swirls, or dripping with Spanish lace, every confection was an ode to romantic drama.

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Women's

Bibhu on Bibhu

Bibhu MohapatraOn the day in January when news broke that Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation had tapped designer Bibhu Mohapatra for its annual prize, he was ensconced in his studio at the CFDA Incubator, managing expectations. Prior winners of the prize include Rodarte, Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler, so Mohapatra would have been excused for dreaming big at that moment. 

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