Jil Sander, Spring/Summer 2012, Milan Fashion Week
A bright white runway that ran through a rock garden. A Mondrian grid of green, red, blue and yellow. Fifties haute couture with a modern attitude. White on white – strict cut dresses with dart and princess seaming in lightweight cottons layered to be opaque to semi sheer. Shutter pleat details, short and long sleeves, all hemlines below the knee, seaming and transparency created the design interest.
Paisley prints! Neon-injected paisley on a white background. Paisley tops and bottoms paired with navy pencil skirts and navy tops. Lady Chic jacket and dress combinations, very strict dresses, bow detail at the back of the neck — very Dior and Balenciaga from the Fifties. Paisley clip earrings and little hats with veils… Intarsia knits borrowed from Picasso were worn with gingham or white pants.
Prim with a Fifties nod and a twist that makes it today and very Raf Simons, very Jil Sander!
