Inside Kiton, Part II: Facing the Future of Neapolitan Tailoring
A young tailor.
Yesterday we marveled at the Neapolitan tailoring traditions upheld at Kiton. Today we examine how Kiton ensures its survival. CEO Antonio De Matteis succeeded his uncle, the revered Kiton founder Ciro Paone, in 2007. Despite the economic difficulty of the ensuing years, De Matteis has overseen a handful of ambitious projects to extend the family-owned brand without compromising its quality. First, it acquired Carlo Barbera, one of Italy’s most prestigious fabric mills.
“It was done in the beginning for sentimental reasons, because there was a relationship between my uncle and Mr. Barbera,” says De Matteis. “Today we look at it as a strategic opportunity, to ensure we can continue to have all our fabrics exclusively and made expressly for us, [meeting our standards of] quality and design.”
Considering all the facets of a man’s wardrobe, Kiton is building on the sportswear side, too. It makes outerwear in Parma and knitwear in Fidenza, near Parma, in wholly owned factories. On Kiton’s main campus outside Naples, a denim factory is under construction — alongside an employee gym, classrooms and a nursery, which will provide free child care to all staff.
“We always take care of the life of the people who work with us. My uncle did this from the beginning. He cared for the anima (spirit) of people,” says De Matteis. In 1968, seeing that Neapolitan tailoring was losing ground to mass production, Paone gathered 20 tailors to work under an industrial structure and a single brand. This move ultimately gave Kiton the ability to preserve the essential traditions, tastes and stature of tailors. Today it is deeply moving to witness artisans practicing their craft within a thriving business and receiving an excellent quality of life in return.
Kiton continues to feed its employees souls in numerous ways. Paone decorated the facilities with antique furniture, fine art and even a collection of clothing that belonged to the Duke of Windsor. “He wanted that they can see, touch, understand what for him means bello.” says De Matteis.
Outside, the grounds are beautified by citrus trees and Paone’s beloved Caucasian shepherd dogs. Employees take lunch together as subjects of a masterful cook, Pascuale, who has cooked for Paone for more than four decades.
To ensure that Neapolitan tailoring remains an attractive, viable career option for generations to come, Kiton is expanding its tailoring academy and planning to deploy multi-lingual graduates around the world. All graduates of Kiton’s training program find jobs, whether at Kiton or other companies in the region.
“We don’t mind, because we think it’s a job that needs to be cultivated. We cannot lose this tradition. Today I’m proud to say the average age of our employees is 36 years,” says De Matteis. Today Kiton seeks new recruits who are open to working abroad, and who are patient, he says. “The new generation, they want everything immediately. It’s not possible to become a tailor like that. It’s not possible to become an important person in the company like that.”
Female tailors tend to handle the more delicate product like shirts and ties.
The next generation of tailors will travel the world like ambassadors.
“Already, Kiton is an ambassador all over the world for Naples. Today when people talk about the Neapolitan school of tailoring, they are largely speaking about our work. What this company has done and what it does today for our citizens, are very important to us. Unfortunately Naples is a city you only hear bad news about, but there are so many beautiful things,” says De Matteis.
In 2014 Kiton will open a showroom and museum in Naples and closes its showrooms in New York and Milan.
“Today we have a new generation of buyer, and I don’t want them to buy it just because of the brand, or because it’s the most expensive brand. I want them to understand the patience, the quality, the handwork in the product. My personal dream is to show everyone what we are doing.”
CEO Antonio De Matteis surveys construction at Kiton.
Kiton is sold in Neiman Marcus stores. The Neiman Marcus Made-to-Measure Event is August 18-September 5.
Tomorrow on NMdaily: Where to Eat in Naples!
