Women's
NM @ Haute Couture Fashion Week
Colby Jordan, of the blog Minnie Muse, with Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris.
The trek through the Tuileries to my first couture show – Dior, to be exact – felt more like a challenge on an episode of fashion week survivor than an effortless stroll. Dior provided a slew of French male-models to escort guests through the icy, frozen path, to a tent filled with fresh greenery, transporting you to another land. As the show began, models emerged through the bushes from beneath the runway—like flowers sprouting from the ground. The colorful looks in hues of yellow, pink and orange shined as bright as the girls’ crystal-encrusted lips. Backstage amongst the hair extension-filled floor stood designer Raf Simons, unassuming and accessible, post-show.
Christian Dior
Christian Dior
Later Monday evening, Giambattista Valli chose a more intimate setting – the Italian embassy – to hold his third couture collection. Valli showed a more romantic interpretation of nature than Dior, through animal prints, flower appliqués, delicate ruffles and nature-inspired jewelry. The majestic show concluded with an unforeseen ending; before the models took their final walk, a beautifully dressed older woman assumed the show had concluded and began walking down the runway to the exit. Unfortunately the room of shocked, seated onlookers was no indication as she continued to shuffle down the runway until the line of models caught up.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli
Tuesday morning marked Karl’s thirtieth year designing Chanel couture. This season Mr.Lagerfeld, like his fellow couturiers, turned to nature as inspiration. Chanel constructed a forest within the Grand Palais – complete with over three hundred large trees and foliage, rocks and sand, as well as a wooden walkway and animal noises coming from the bushes. Models wandered across the circular sand runway as if they were lost in a fairy-tale land, while their ornate headpieces and feathers for eyelashes gave the illusion they were part human and part mythical creature. The collection as a whole felt like a ‘best of’ Chanel couture. Each look was more ornate yet more delicate than the last. The sequin-encrusted flower series was my favorite and as for Karl’s controversial double-bride finale, two Chanel couture wedding dresses are always better than one!
Chanel
Chanel
Giorgio Armani showed his Prive collection Tuesday evening followed by the opening of his newest boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris. The show was an ethnic mix of patterns and colors while still staying true to the sculpted Armani aesthetic. Models walked the geometric runway accessorized to perfection – pictures cannot do the headpieces and jewelry justice. After Mr. Armani timidly emerged from the back to take his bow it was exiting to find him backstage awaiting clients and press in front of a slew of photographers to pose for photos
Armani Prive
Armani Prive
The first show on Wednesday, the final day of couture, was Jean Paul Gaultier. With a crowed gathered outside his atelier and a celebrity-filled audience, his shows are always high-energy. I was seated directly across the runway from Catherine Deneuve who was surrounded by fellow French movie stars. As Gaultier’s entire atelier took their place on the second level, overlooking the runway, the show began. The collection, like Armani, was filled with ethnic influences. Models stomped down the runway with their hair in long braids and painted feet. Gaultier’s use of color was an inspirational as the hours of work that went in to making each garment. The most exciting moment of the show came at the end as his bride emerged from behind the runway backdrop. Her dress was easily ten feet in diameter and as four beautiful young girls came running out from underneath, the audience erupted in applause. Gaultier suddenly appeared in his traditional sprint down the runway and escorted his bride down the stairs.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier
Spring/summer 2013 proved to be the season for Valentino. Designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri sent their ninth couture collection as creative directors of Valentino down the runway on Wednesday evening. The duo found inspiration in the ongoing theme of the week, gardens. The flower dresses became increasingly ornate as the show progressed, and up close you could see tiny butterflies sewn in under layers of organza. It was hard to hold back enthusiasm as the entire room broke out clapping for multiple looks. As the show concluded, Pierpaolo and Maria walked the runway and both received hugs from Mr.Valentino himself, instant gratification that it was a job very well done!
Valentino
Valentino
The final runway collection of the couture season was Maison Martin Margiela who offered, as expected, a far more avant-garde interpretation of couture than any of its fellow houses. The show was an entirely different experience; even with the front row presence of Kanye West, there was no shouting, no blinding camera flashes and very little press. Like last season, the house’s first couture week runway show, models were kept anonymous – much like the label’s founder – by way of ornate masks. Despite Margiela’s more radical couture collection, nature was still present in the printed fabrics, feathers and beaded flowers.
- Maison Martin Margiela
Maison Martin Margiela
While each show had commonalities the differences are what set the design houses apart. Couture is far from a dying art as every designer proved this week. The success of the spring/summer 2013 couture season has the fashion world eagerly awaiting the start of the fall/winter 2013 ready-to-wear season in just two weeks!
