Women's
Conversation With: Jeweler, Sculptor, Ippolita
Italian born artist Ippolita set out to design the jewelry she wanted—wearable jewelry with a sexy simplicity and honesty of form that enhanced the wearer with day-to-evening versatility. She originally experimented to create a gold that flatters every skin type, then added a silver and a rose gold collection to the mix. Designed to be worn alone or mixed and matched together in endless combination, her baubles have become favorites of celebrities and fashion magazines.
NM: You were trained as an artist, how does your background in sculpture inform your jewelry design?
Ippolita: I studied sculpture for 5 years, so I’ve always been interested in form, but I think that art should also be relevant. I wasn’t a fashion person when I first moved to the U.S. from Italy, but fashion is where most people encounter artistry and craftsmanship in their daily lives. When you work in fine materials, people pay more attention to detail and craftsmanship. My jewelry is handmade, from the mixing of the alloys to the faceting and setting of stones, and I like that you can see the craftsmanship and skill behind each piece. The delicate hammering on this bangle or the organic shape to that pendant can’t be done any other way than by hand.
Ippolita Ring
NM: What’s your favorite piece for spring?
Ippolita: At the moment my favorite pieces are from my resin line. I’m constantly looking for new materials for the evolution of my work and for sheer interest. I like to think of my work as organized randomness. So my pieces may incorporate different materials, organic shapes, or randomly faceted stones, but they are tied together by an aesthetic. The pieces are designed to be layered together in any combination – you have total flexibility. Mixed materials and versatility are my trademarks.
NM: As a sculptor, how important for you is the tactile quality of your jewelry?
Ippolita: It’s very important. My pieces get their sculptural quality by body imprinting. I use sheets of wax pressed against different areas of the body, which create an organic shape that I make into moulds. You can’t beat metal into these smooth undulating lines. It’s what makes my jewelry so comfortable.
Ippolita bib necklace
NM: How does the design process work for you?
Ippolita: I start with the materials, and that usually determines the scale. The color palette is influenced by fashion. In fact the line is very fashion driven. After I pick the materials, I start sketching to build on what I did the previous season. I try to rely on my instincts and be honest with myself. I find that if I am honest and allow myself to naturally gravitate in a direction that I can tap into a zeitgeist. Then I start proto-typing. It’s an important step in the process because you just don’t know what you are dealing with until you make a sketch into a 3D prototype. After that we go to manufacturing. I have a couple of factories that only work for me, depending on the skill needed. I like to use big stones with little metal settings to keep it feminine and there are only a few places that have the skills or experience to get it the way I want.
NM: Do you have a favorite spring trend?
Ippolita: For the spring, it’s all about sexy layering of chains and piles of bangles. Of course sexy is always fashionable. When I talk about the transformative effect of jewelry and how it makes you feel prettier and sexier, women get it.
Ippolita bracelets
Pendants
Earrings
