1. Tom Ford Lipstick, Blush Nude
2. Equipment Python Stripe Shirt
3. Christian Louboutin Bella Zeppa Wedge Bootie
4. NM Essentials Luxury Soft Turtleneck
6. Apple iPad Mini
7. Starbucks’ Pomegranate Cashews
8. Vince Skinny Pants
10. Neiman Marcus Fur Snood
Moving right along to Milan! First stop, Bottega Veneta for the ultimate in understated Italian luxury.
Ines’ office at Roger Vivier.
My couture week kicked off on Monday morning with a showroom appointment at Roger Vivier. In true Parisian style their flagship located on the famed Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré also houses their showroom and offices of creative director Bruno Frisoni and in-house muse, legendary supermodel Ines de la Fressange. Bruno transformed his studio using silver foil to mimic Andy Warhol’s famed Factory as the backdrop to show his mod spring/summer 2013 couture collection. He modernized classic shapes and couture techniques – such as Lesage embroidery – using fur, metal, feathers and bright colors. Ines opened the doors to her pink office/treasure trove and was on hand to speak about Bruno’s latest masterpiece collection for Vivier.
With Roger Vivier Creative Director, Bruno Frisoni.
Pink mink Roger Vivier couture accessories.
No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to Azzedine Alaia. You never know what will stand behind the boutique’s ironclad doors, such as, in my case, famed French actress Catherine Deneuve waiting with two other women outside the communal changing room for Mr. Alaia to finish an ever-important couture fitting. The building houses the world’s only Alaia boutique, showroom, atelier, countless works by artist Julian Schnabel and serves as one of Azzedine’s many Parisian homes.
Bruno’s Warhol factory-inspired studio.
On Wednesday evening it was time to play dress up with jeweler Eddie Borgo and his pre-fall 2013 collection. Borgo was showing his latest pieces for men and women in a temporary Parisian showroom located just across from Roger Vivier; he even had a few of his stunning jewelry boxes on-hand to showcase alongside his latest baubles. This season, Eddie has added new designs in silver, gold and rose gold and has reinterpreted classics like his ever-popular cone bracelets and tassel necklace in new sizes and colors.
Eddie Borgo Pre-Fall 2013.
Whether it be fashion or art, culture is ubiquitous in Paris. On Thursday once couture had concluded it was time to visit Galerie Perrotin. On view were three distinct shows by artists Johan Creten, Jean-Michel Othoniel and Pieter Vermeersch. The later is an abstract painter while the former two are both sculptors. A favorite moment of mine, however, came when seeing the adorable artist toys by KAWS and Takashi Murakami in the gallery owner’s office.
Artist toys by KAWS and Takashi Murakami at Galerie Perrotin.
Sculpture at Galerie Perrotin by Jean-Michel Othoniel.
Paris’ Left Bank is home to famed taxidermy mecca, Deyrolle, where they offer stuffed and dried animals ranging in sizes from tiny bugs smaller than a centimeter to a giraffe or elephant. Their entire back room devoted to butterflies and insects transports you into what feels more like the mind of artist Damien Hirst than a room filled with dried bugs. The shop has been around for almost two hundred years and serves as a unique source of inspiration for designers looking to learn more about the wild.
Zebras at Deyrolle.
1. Givenchy Studded Nightengale Tote.
2. Carven Peplum Jacket.
3. Isabel Marant 50MM Dicker Suede Low Boots are perfect for walking around the city.
4. Nanette Lepore Leather Skirt
5. Halston Heritage Printed Shiftdress that I can wear with tights or bare legs, depending on the weather.
6. Yves Saint Laurent Le Rouge Lipstick for nights out!
7. Christian Louboutin Leather/Suede Red Sole Ankle Boot
8. Eddie Borgo Tinsel Collar Necklace
9. Alice + Olivia Leather Pants
10. Bleulab Jeans are great because they are reversible and can be worn two ways.
Lele Sadoughi
The new name to know in jewelry is Lisa “Lele” Sadoughi. Ring a bell? Maybe not, but her aesthetic most likely will. Lele has been designing swoon-worthy jewels for years, first at Ippolita, then launching a jewelry collection for a popular retail chain, and now serving as design director at Tory Burch. Most recently, the Texan-turned-New Yorker extends her prolific design eye to an eponymous enameled jewelry collection. NMdaily sits down with Sadoughi to see what sparked her Spring 2013 designs.
Lotus & Scarab necklace.
The Source: I’m inspired by a place and a time. I like to create a world based on the architecture, paintings, and feelings of an era. I am always traveling, researching, and thinking about the next idea.
I love to scour flea markets all over the world. I recently spent some time in Marrakech, Morocco digging through piles of dusty jewels in the shops throughout the souks. I recently visited Seoul, Korea and was truly inspired by all the modern technology around me. Last month, I headed to Mexico to soak in all the colors in their pottery and woven clothing.
I also make several trips a year to the Picture Collection on the 3rd floor of the Bryant Park Library. It is the place where broken books lay to rest and you can rent out tear sheets from these battered books. I soak up anything that is grand with scale and color.
Inspiration
The Inspiration: For Spring 2013, I was really interested in the early 1920′s with the resurgence of Egyptian architecture and design. I wanted to capture the mechanical, geometric deco look and add the fantasy of Ancient Egypt.
This season, I was inspired by the Egyptian revival upon the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in the early 1920′s. I wanted to reinterpret ancient Egyptian columns, drawings of lotus flowers, and jeweled headdresses into modern, geometric elements.
I really love stacking my slider bracelets. I looked at many drawings of ancient Egyptian painted columns with rows of painted lotus flowers, stripes, and colorful drawings. My slider bracelets are meant to be stacked on each arm and can tell a different story with each color combination worn.
Mini cube slider bracelets.
The Attraction: In the 1920′s there was a shift in the direction of costume jewelry; it was no longer about making imitations of precious jewelry, but about creating art. For my Spring 2013 Collection, I played around with the stripes from the Pharaoh’s scepters, made golden falcons, and even created abstract lotus flowers. Basically, I am trying to create a new world from old ideas each season.
Lotus earrings.
The Vision: Costume jewelry should be memorable. I think about the woman that wants a button earring for every day and the fabulous chandelier earring for special occasions. We need a piece to fit all our moods.
1. Milly Tie-Neck Cat-Print Blouse
2. Judith Leiber Cat Capone Clutch Bag
3. Tom Ford Nikita Caty Eye Sunglasses
4. Charlotte Olympia Kitty Flats
5. Emilee Anne Kitty Polka-Dot Scarf
6. Hanky Panky Hello Kitty Camisole & Boyshorts
7. Marc by Marc Jacobs Rue Kitty Velvet Loafer
8. Valentino Rockstud Kitten Heels
The idea for the jeweled design of “Bollywood” ($1,395) came from an ancient Italian bracelet that has been in the Caovilla family since 1930.
Rows of skilled artisans hunched over worktables, scrupulously cutting leather and forming the slivers into delicate adornments; placing crystals with surgeon-like dexterity onto the vamps of stilettos; stitching thousands of beads, sequins, and feathers by hand, one by one. This is the scene that greets visitors to the Venice villa workshop of shoemaker René Caovilla. Here, shoes are meticulously tooled into creations befitting a modern-day fairy tale. And that’s exactly how the calzolaio wants it.
The René Caovilla compound.
The second-generation shoemaker learned his craft at the apron of his father, Edoardo, who made shoes for the highest-echelon clientele—fusing art, Venetian craftsmanship, and jewelry making. The pupil studied well and followed in the Caovilla tradition. His reputation as a craftsman and couturier led to several esteemed creative partnerships. In the ’70s, Caovilla joined forces with designer Valentino Garavani, creating shoes under the label Valentino by René Caovilla—an association that lasted more than two decades. Another brush with high fashion was in the early ’90s when Dior came calling, followed by a five-year collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld.
Jeweled embroidery incorporates five sizes and 10 colors of Swarovski crystals —each one set by hand. The embroidery alone requires five hours of labor.
It wasn’t until 2000 that Caovilla made the decision to focus all production efforts on the house’s eponymous brand. Shoes lavished with jewelry would be the epicenter of his artistic expression. The divine results have garnered a celeb following and the highest standing among shoe devotees and fashion’s elite. Simply put, a shoe by René Caovilla is nothing short of a masterpiece.
Five artisans work on each pair of sandals: one to create the embroidery, and four to craft the shoe’s other components—heel, platform, insole, and upper. A pair, from start to finish, is an 18-hour process.
The scene: cocktail hour in a New York brownstone. An Upper East Side girl with polish and Downtown style, hit with a hefty dose of Brit whimsy. Stella McCartney is half New Yorker, remember—her mom was from New York. Feathers became flowers; there were eagle motifs, embroidery. The models mingled while artists worked at the perimeters. Photos above by yours truly.
1. Rag & Bone Cambridge Jacket
2. YSL nail polish in ‘Beige Leger.’ Looking forward to a nude, clean slate.
3. Balenciaga duffel bag for my weekend escape to warmer weather.
4. A new 3.1 Phillip Lim 31 min. clutch in a fantastic color.
5. Current Elliott rip and rep denim to pair with easy tops.
6. Proenza Schouler tie dye long sleeve tee. It goes perfectly with the rip and repair denim.
7. Season 6 of Mad Men!
8. Theyskens’ Theory White Leather Moto Jacket.
9. New Mara Hoffman printed bikini.
10. Vince Jogger Pant. Looking chic and feeling comfy is the way to go, almost feels like a pajama pant!
NeimanMarcus.com.cn
Earlier this year Neiman Marcus announced it would launch a dedicated site for Chinese consumers, and it has now come to fruition. Neimanmarcus.com.cn launched this month, making the latest collections of 23 European and American designers—including Alexander McQueen, Jason Wu, Donna Karan, The Row and Valentino—available to fashion aficionados in the Middle Kingdom. The site currently offers women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories.
The site has its own blog, Front Row @ NM, to provide global fashion news, trend direction, and stories about NM heritage.
Front Row @ NM
Front Row @ NM
Neiman Marcus China is also active on the social network Weibo.
An elite team of NM staffers has relocated from Dallas to Shanghai to ensure that the new market is served with the standards of the NM brand.
VP Nathan Johnson inspects the goods.
We’re tickled to see our logo and butterflies going global!
Shanghai, home of NM China.
