Fashion, like the weather, is an unpredictable lot. Here in Paris, on the summer morning of the CHANEL haute couture show, it is raining—actually, pouring—and I mean POURING!
Traffic inches to Le Parc de Saint Cloud on the outskirts of Paris, which is the site for Karl Lagerfeld's latest proposal to his tweed-clad enthusiasts. It was runway in the round in this glorious garden, and the flowers were the happiest in attendance during this summer deluge. Under canvas canopies, the chicly turned out Chanel clientele and press corps were trying their best to keep dry and, at times, their sense of humor. Drip-dry tweeds? Could be an idea after watching Karl's cadre of loyalists soak up the rain like sponges!
The rain could not sidetrack this collection; it is where Karl has put all of his attention. From the heavens, the soundtrack filled the air and, without missing a beat, the first model charged out onto the soaking gravel. A perfect black suit trimmed in organza with feathers at the cuff and neck looked polished and chic, as did the next look, a charcoal dress with jet beads outlining the garment like a child's coloring book. The models' hoods and thigh-high boots (also side striped with decoration) looked as if Karl had anticipated this inclement day.
Contrasting black trim on a winter-white suit with a skirt that moved had coordinating trim on boots and gloves, and whipstitching outlining a winter coat with belted sides was sharp and elegant. A teal coat with a hood and matching leggings that covered the shoe had the modernity and confidence that we have come to expect from Karl.
Embellishment reigns supreme at this house, where matching boots were as highly decorated as the beautiful coats, dresses, and suits they accompanied. Karl has taken sides in this fashion moment, literally to the point where the side of the garment is the news.
Fringed brown tweed took flight with feathery sides that extended to wing-like sleeves. A taupe tweed suit topped with a matching tweed hat was paired with sheer hosiery woven with a black tuxedo stripe down the leg. Shiny silver in a sharp shoulder suit got a black outline. A simple navy satin chemise got outlined with gold and clear stone decoration. A jacket and dress ensemble in burnt sienna was revved up with a racing stripe of silver down the top of the sleeve and the side of the dress that extended down the side of the boot.
Clever color contrast looked exceptional in a pink stone-trimmed olive jacket that stopped at the hip over a mint dress that fell to the ankle. Karl also showed stone-encrusted cap sleeves and side seams in pale rose.
Karl loves the little black dress (a staple at this house), and he sent out a bevy of beauties one after the other: Horizontal ribbons and bows for a charming LBD option, ultra-cool lace and tulle, and sheer and opaque stripes that got ruffled attention.
Newest: Navy for night, and there is nothing more chic! (This navy message continued throughout the week.) Navy sequins on a short black cocktail dress! Navy paillettes as side interest on navy satin! Feather and paillettes that redefine glamour in a navy chemise!
Sheer silver camouflage in a short cocktail had black camo boots to match, and a pale, long version became iridescent.
Side volume of tulle envelope sleeves and side seams on a little lace dress decorated with bows looked tempting, side volume in the extreme with exaggerated hips in floaty layers of sheer was an over-the-top haute fantasy!
Voluminous sleeves balanced volume at the ankles in a slim, lace black evening dress. A black paillette dress with a white feather hem played second stage to a dramatic coat with a black and white pattern lining with yet more feathers. Platinum beads on pink tulle got topped with a white feather shrug.
Birds of a feather flocked together in Karl's ultimate haute couture fantasy. The bride, in white feathers with embroidery and stones, took to the watery venue like a swan gracefully gliding on a pond. Anticipating the sun, she took to her watery wedlock in sunglasses. A little underwater, ALL OVER THE TOP!